I'm Kit, a 20 years old illustration student from Hungary.
I love exploring and creating all sorts
of things, I'm most interested in drawing, crafting and storywriting.
I recently started my own Fursuit Maker business, which I'm very excited about. In my freetime I work on the Paperwings comic.


Fursuits are animal and fantasy creature themed costumes. Their ability to turn drawings into living-breathing characters is truly a magical thing to me, and I wanted to share this joy with people by opening a little crafting business.Commission openings are always announced on my social plattforms.


Photo credits: Martyfolf, FurCPhoto


As a kid, I started drawing as a hobby but it quickly became so much more for me. Art is my daily fuel and I'm very passionate about it.
I currently do commissions very rarely - it's not very comfortable for me, but I really appreciate your interest! If I do open my commissions, it will be announced on my social plattforms.


Paperwings comic

One of my bigest goals is to bring this graphic novel trilogy to life. I have limited resources however, so I'm currently looking for stability and support to do this project besides college and work.

Read a teaser zine for more about the story below.There is a blog dedicated for Paperwings too, take a look for more art, updates, infos and questions. It is currently under construction, but it will be the main content page for for the project. Thank you for your interest!

The comic is hosted on Webtoon, but is on hiatus due to limited resources. Probably will be reworked in the future.

Teaser Zine!

Commissions are closed

How to order

  1. Check if the commissions are open

  2. If yes, click the button to navigate to the quote form

  3. Submit your data very carefully and wait for the reply email

  4. Approved projects will be chosen after the commissions close

  5. If you are not selected, you can always try again next time

Base prices - 2022


Here you can learn about what to expect when ordering a Diinokit fursuit. You can chose from many features to give your character the most fitting look possible. If you are wondering if a not listed feature is possible to create, feel free to ask about it when applying to the commission!


  • Heads are built from EVA foam, they are lightweight and soft. Every base is individually hand-designed.

  • The eyes have great vision and ventilation, the head insides are fully lined with a balaclava material.

  • The mouths naturally come with a front row of teeth on the bottom jaw. You can upgrade this set to a teeth army if you wish.

  • If the standard static jaw feels boring to you, you can have a moving one to the base.

  • Many changeable features are available: multiple eyelids, switchable tongues, removable hairstyles, magnetic horns/anthlers, poseable ears. There are 3 eye shapes you can chose from:

  • The two main finishing styles for the eyes are Dot and Classic eyes.

  • Dot Eyes: Made out of mesh only. More room for visiblity, less realistic look.

  • Classic Eyes: Mesh and hard plastic. Less room for visiblity, more realistic look.


  • Separate, lined arm- and legsleeves can be ordered to every type of commission, so you can partial with a fullsuit for example.

  • Body paddings are attached, but can be removed from the suit before washing.

  • The standard Digigrade padding is moderately stuffed. You can have more exaggerated and chunky legs, dropped crotch padding, and other types of body stuffings as well.

  • Bodysuits don't have a lining. While fullsuiting, you have to wear an under-armor or similar for health and sanitary reasons.


  • Paws are lined and stuffed to keep their unique shape.

  • 5 finger paws: great mobility. Mammalian paws are bigger and puffier, Reptilian or Avian paws are slim and don't have stuffing.

  • 4 finger paws: You can't grab things in this one, but it's extra puffy. Same pattern is used for most species.

  • Resin claws are ordered from OroraStudio


  • Tails have removable belts.

  • Heavily stuffed Large and Extra Large tails have removable stuffing.

  • Small tail: booty length

  • Medium tail: knee length

  • Large tail: ankle length

  • Extra Large tail: drags on the floor

  • A special tail type is the Wiggle Tail, it provides a waving movement when you walk. It works with horizontally pointing tails. Wiggle Tails are washable as well, you can remove their core from their fur covering.

  • This type is recommended for Medium and Large sized tails.

feet paws

  • Feet paws have built in shoes to make walking in them more comfortable.

  • Feet paws naturally come for outdoor use. They have an inside shoe for durability and comfort.

  • If you ask for indoor feet, keep in mind that it is ment for display, not for walking long distances.

  • Feet paws for fullsuits are semi-attached with zippers, meaning you can wear and store them separate, but wearing them gives the illusion of seamless legs.

  • For a more chunky looking Digigrade bodysuit, the Digigrade feet paws will be accordingly chunkier.

finishing Materials

Fur imitation, mammals and furry fellas

  • Good quality faux fur is the most common fursuit making material. The usual pile length is 4 or 6 cm, it's usually shaved down for a shorter length for the most parts. It comes in many colors, but its expensive and not comfortable to wear.

  • Knitted, stretchy fur is better if your character has a short coat, and it's important for you to move around. Strechy fur has greater mobility, but it's very expensive and has limited colors.

  • For very long hair, it's recommended to chose using a wig instead of faux fur.

Skin and scales, Reptiles and crawly creatures

  • Imitating skin is a rather hard thing to do on fursuits. The long pile of the faux fur helps to hide wrinkles in the fabric, which occures while your body moves. This is why it is recommended to still use short faux fur on full body suits of scaly characters. Stretch fur is a great material for this purpose, but it has limited colors.

  • For partial suits or smaller parts (eg. bird legs, rat tails) it's a great choice to use minky. It has a nice shiny texture, comes in many colors and is cheaper than faux fur.

  • A special kind of minky is mochi, which is even more skin-like and has a nice stretch to it. A bit more expensive, but has a nice color range.

Feathers, horns, and special parts

  • Faux fur is a good choice for fully feather covered characters, such as birds. There are even some feather imitation fur colors out there if you want something more realistic.

  • For large, pronounced feathers in wings and tails, minky is used. It's a great material to make parts that are supposed to be 'harder' than fur, such as paw pads, beaks, horns, fins, claws, anthlers, plates, just to name a few.

  • Belly plates can also be achieved by precisely trimming faux fur.

Currently running premades

The Badger - Demon

  • Type: Full Plantigrade

  • Head: Moving jaw, Grumpy dot eyes, removable horns

  • Paws: Anthro

  • Tail: Large

  • Feet paws: Outdoor feet

Available when the finished suit is up for sale, more data to be announced soon

the Sea Hyena

  • Type: Partial

  • Head: Toony classic eyes, removable antennas, switchable tongues

  • Paws: 4 finger, Toony

  • Tail: Medium, Foam Spine

  • Feet paws: Indoor feet

Available when the finished suit is up for sale, more data to be announced soon

Terms of service


  • You must be over 18 years old to commission me. Commissioners will be asked for a proof of age.

  • During the creation, I will send you work in progress photos. If you feel something is not right, please tell me right away, so I can correct things before the process continues. Major things can not be changed after some time, (or only with increased costs) so please be sure about your request and pay attention to the progress photos.

  • As an artist, I prefer to create artwork and costumes in my own style. It can have some flexibility to fit to the commissioned character, but I will not do something entirely different, nor copy the style of other creators.

  • If the commission fails, the unfinished project will be modified in design and sold. A commission can fail if you wish to cancel the project for any reason, or if the client disappears, and refuses to make any further communication after one month of silence.



  • The price of the commission is payed in three segments. The estimated labor cost must be payed upfront, the material cost is payed after the project is finished, and the shipping cost (if any) is added right before the costume leaves my studio.

  • If you wish to cancel the commission for any reason after I start working on it, there is a 30% non-refundable amount. The rest of the possible refunds are discussed privately, depending on what working stage I'm in, what parts have been completed, and what materials have been purchased for the project. After the costume is finished, there is no refund available.

  • After the costume was sent out for delivery, I am no longer able to provide responsibility for delays, damages or loss. The shipping company has the financial responsibility over the package in transit.


  • I offer a 12 months repair warranty after the product is delivered. Shipping and material costs for repairs are covered by the customer. Repair works after this time period will come with a fee. Warranty does not cover damages from misusing and rough-housing your product. If you take proper care of your fursuit it can last for many years. I'm not responsible for any injury you may incur while performing in fursuit.

  • When minor repairs are made by another maker, the end result must look the same as the original one. Big upgrades and replacements can only be done by the original maker.

  • Premade fursuits come with character rights, but if you want to make major alterations on your costume (not the drawn character), please contact the original maker.


  • I don't own any photos taken from the costume after I shipped it to you, as you don't own the content I have created of your costume before it left my studio. I believe in mutual crediting when posting content online, feel free to share, print and use pictures of your suit.

  • My business is Safe For Work. Please do not take inappropriate photos in your costume, as my creations are representing my business.


  • Currently I only accept fursuit commissions, no requests for single parts (e.g paws only) will be accepted.

  • Before submitting your application, please make sure you have a fursuit friendly reference sheet of your character. Not having a proper reference sheet means that I cannot accept your application.

  • Please note that not every request will be accepted. As a maker, I prefer working on characters I find fitting into my artistic niche, and are interesting enough for me to dedicate many months of heartful work into their creation.


  • Uncommon species!

  • Common species (e.g. Wolves) with catchy designs

  • Both natural and unrealistic color themes

  • Exciting, unique features and elements

  • Harmonizing palettes, markings and features

Not preferred

  • 3D printing required characters (e.g. Skullies)

  • Copyrighted characters (e.g. Pokemons)

  • Electronic, resin & silicone features, airbrushing

  • Odd or clashing palettes, illegible markings

  • NSFW suggesting features


  • I will ask for the full payment right before I start working on your piece.

  • If you wish to cancel the commission, there is a non-refundable amount depending on what working stage I'm in. (Sketch: 20%, Ink: 50%, Color: 80%.) After the full render has been made, there is no refund.

  • My art can not be used for commercial reasons. You have no rights to make any profit from my art.

  • You can not make any digital changes on my art pieces.

  • Feel free to share, print, use my art online, but crediting me as the creator is required.

Cleaning guide


  • Brush your fursuit before and after using it, it helps the fur fibers staying clean and pretty. Use a slicker brush or pet's brush for long fur and a bristle brush for short fur.

  • Be clean before fursuiting, take a shower or wash your hair if needed. It makes a huge difference in keeping your suit hygienic.

  • Avoid getting dirty while fursuiting. Grass, chocolate, ketchup or coke are just some of the million things that are impossible to clean out from faux fur. White fur should be especially look out for.

  • Avoid physical damage. While suits are built to take massive usage, they’re still hand-built products.

  • The most ideal storing place for your fursuit would be a closet or similar. Make sure the chosen storage can’t collect dust, is dry, room temperature, and is away from any direct sunlight. Brush your suit before storing it and make sure that you cleaned and dried it before putting it away.


  • After light use, place your suit head and paws upside down to help them dry more effectively. If you have a fan, place them next to it. After everything is completely dry, grab a fursuit disinfecting spray and spray the inside of all the fursuit parts that are directly touching your skin or absorbing your sweat. Don’t wear it again until everything is dry.

  • After heavy use, you have to wash your suit. Everything can be machine washed except from the head and feet.


  1. Take the stuffing out from the parts with removable padding. Put each stuffing into separate bags, so you will know which goes where after you're done washing. Remove the foam base from the Foam Spine tails. Turn the bodysuit inside out and pull up it's zipper(s).

  2. Put the suit in the washing machine. Use neutral liquid laundry detergent. Never use laundry whiteners, it will cause irreversible damage. Set the washing machine to cold. Never-ever use hot water, there is no way for your fursuit to recover from a heat damage. If your machine has "delicate" washing program, use that one for washing.

  3. Never use machine dryer to dry your fursuit. Put your suit horizontally on a cloth dryer, squish the excess water out of it and brush it carefully from top to bottom. Parts with sewn in padding might take one or two days to dry. Always make sure that everything is 100% dry before storing to prevent any mold.

  4. If you want to clean stains on the head or feet, use a mixture of water and detergent applied with a moist cloth. Rinse out the chemicals after you're done. If you want to clean the whole head or feet, never submerge them in water. Water the outer and/or inner side of them very carefully, as too much water can damage their structure. Try to avoid making the eyes wet. Mix water with detergent, apply it carefully, and massage it in until you see bubbles. Rinse out the detergent and squeeze the parts carefully with a small towel to sponge out as much water as possible. Brush the parts completely and put them in a dry, ventilated place. It can take one or two days for them to dry. Again, only put them away if they have dried completely.